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The fine-al word on dining

[ 26th April 2010 ]

Posted by: CK LAM via News Straits Times [ NST Online ]

Chin’s offers luxury on several levels, from its splendid seaview to its plush indoor ambience and stylish Chinese cuisine. CK LAM spends a glorious evening there

Impressive piece of calligraphic art done by Dave Chin projected onto the bar
Impressive piece of calligraphic art done by Dave Chin projected onto the bar.

THIS latest Penang fine dining restaurant has a prime seaside location in Church Street Pier. Chin’s overlooks the calm waters of the harbour, and Georgetown is right behind it.

Opened just a few months ago, Chin’s is casual and elegant with deliciously delicate cuisine and delectable wines. You’ll sense you’ll be pampered.

The welcoming ambience begins the moment one steps through the striking red glass door and into the waiting area — there to greet you is owner Dave Chin.

Tastefully decorated with modern Chinese contemporary artwork, chandeliers and plush chairs, the whole effect is breathtaking.

The glass-enclosed dining hall room seats 90 comfortably, while the front offers a sweeping view of the sea.

Crisp table settings add to the finesse, including the gorgeous hand-painted dining plates with various designs which are for sale exclusively at Chin’s.

In the dining area is a bar with a glass top featuring an impressive piece of Chinese calligraphy by the owner himself.

The lights below the glass change, so the words appear in many different colours.

Chin’s flavours have opened up a new experience in fine dining that begs to be savoured. Its menu features the best of Hunan and Sichuan cuisines with appetisers, specialties, meat, poultry and seafood.

All the food in the fine gastronomic tasting menu is prepared by a creative culinary team from China headed by executive chef Wang ZhiZhong. Varied spices are used in the preparation of wholesome traditional Chinese recipes with unique flavours and aromas.

The meal started off with a selection of light appetisers accompanied with a South African red wine, Malan.

The wine was light and fruity with a hint of wood.

The cold appetisers were Garlic Cucumber (Pai Suan Huang Gua), Hunan Shredded Seaweed (Liang Ban Hai Dai Si), Seaweed Cashew (Gan Shao Er Song) and Century Egg in Grilled Red Pepper (Shao Jiao Pi Dan). The century egg was presented with a modern twist, topped with a flavourful sauce and accompanied with grilled red peppers.

The hot appetisers were kicked off by Heavenly Blessed Joysticks (Shang Shang Qian), beautifully presented on skewers, comprising seashell meat, baby abalone and sea fungus to be soaked in spicy and pungent chilli oil. It was, needless to say, delicate with very distinctive textures.

Sesame Prawns On Toast (Xia Duo Shi) were delicious bites.

Crisply coated with sesame seeds, the toast has a good mix of flavours and went well with a touch of spiciness from the accompanying chilli sauce.

The Smoked Chicken (Xun Ji Si) is a glorious medley of tender chicken pieces with garlic, red and green chilies. It was enchantingly fragrant. Chin’s specialties of Chin’s Aromatic Crispy Duck (Chin’s Zhao Pai Xiang Su Ya) and The Aromatic Crispy Duck recipes have remained as introduced in London all those years ago.

The duck dishes were, and still are, appreciated for the crispy skin and fragrant and tender meat.

I’ve had many variations of this crispy duck dish which are stripped and rolled in a pancake.

However, my favourite are pancakes which have a delicate texture and made without any colouring or essence.

I was glad to see such authenticity at Chin’s, for it really enhanced the meat.

Dave suggested adding some chilli padi into my pancake. Surprisingly the roll tasted fabulous! The Double Flavoured Wild Fresh Water Fish (Shuang Jiao Ye Sheng Dan Shui Yu) had patin fish steamed under a layer of garlic and chilli peppers in delicate gravy.

The chilli was simply awesome and surprisingly, despite the generous amount covering the fish, it was not overpowering. An exciting combination of cod fish, crab and egg was served in a hot stone bowl. I was introduced to the Crab ‘N’ Yoke (Sai Pang Xie), with plenty of sweet and remarkable flavours.

The Cumin Mutton Skewers (Chuan Shao Zi Ran Yang Rou), marinated with cumin and a blend of other fragrant spices, were served topped with onions, spring onions and fresh chillies.

The cumin-infused mutton was perfectly tender with a fragrant aroma, enveloped by a tongue-tingling sauce.

The meal was kept balanced with the Sauteed Vegetable in Red Rice Yeast (Hong Qu Fu Ru Chao Shi Shu).

There are not many restaurants which use red rice yeast in their culinary dishes.

The water convolvulus, though commonly found, was absurdly delicious with the flavours of the red rice yeast, characterised by its red colour.

On a sweet note, the deep fried pumpkin cake with sweetened bean paste (Nan Gua Dou Sha Bing) was a hot sweet treat with pumpkin and red bean paste filling. The man behind Chin’s DAVE Chin is a UK-trained graphic designer and a lover of fine wine and good food.

This successful restaurateur has been involved in the food industry for more than two decades. He opened his first award-winning restaurant in London in 1987.

SAI PANG XIE  Crab 'n' Yoke
Crab ‘N’ Yoke (Sai Pang Xie).

This pork-free restaurant is not yet officially open to the public. Dinner is only available by private bookings. It will open for lunch after its official launch planned for June.

Chin’s Stylish Chinese Cuisine Tanjong City Marina Church Street Pier (Next to QE II) 8A Pengkalan Weld Georgetown Penang Tel: 04-261-2611 Fax: 04-261-3128 Business hours: 6pm till 11.30pm daily


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